Chikankari and Lakhnavi Embroidery: What Makes These Kurti Styles Special

Where This Craft Comes From

Chikankari is a traditional hand embroidery style that originated in Lucknow (historically called Lakhnau), which is why you'll often see the terms "Chikankari" and "Lakhnavi embroidery" used interchangeably. The craft dates back generations and remains one of India's most recognisable embroidery styles.

What Makes Chikankari Distinct

Chikankari is known for its delicate, white-on-white or tonal shadow-work stitching, traditionally done on fine cotton or muslin fabric. Unlike bolder embroidery styles, Chikankari's beauty is often in its subtlety — fine floral and paisley motifs stitched with a level of precision that gives the fabric a soft, textured look rather than a heavily decorated one.

Common Chikankari stitches include:

• Bakhia (shadow work) — stitching done on the reverse side of sheer fabric, creating a soft shadow effect visible from the front.
• Hool — fine eyelet stitches, often used for flower centres.
• Phanda and murri — small knot stitches used for detailed floral work.

Why It Suits Kurtis So Well

Chikankari's lightweight, breathable base fabric (often cotton or rayon) paired with its subtle embroidery makes it especially popular for everyday and semi-formal kurtis — elegant without being heavy or overly ornate, and comfortable for daily wear across most of the year.

Caring for Chikankari and Lakhnavi Pieces

• Hand wash gently in cold water, or use a delicate machine cycle if the fabric allows.
• Avoid harsh detergents, which can weaken fine stitching over time.
• Iron on the reverse side to protect embroidered areas.
• Dry in shade to preserve fabric colour.

Spotting Genuine Hand Embroidery

Genuine Chikankari has slight, natural irregularities in stitch spacing — a sign of hand work rather than machine replication. Machine-embroidered imitations tend to look too uniform and often use a heavier thread than traditional hand Chikankari.

Mount Gray's embroidered kurti collection features genuine hand Lakhnavi and Chikankari embroidery. Explore our Embroidered Kurtis.